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July 25, 2008
The fire looked as if it might have been under control when we left for Rhodes at 8.00am this morning. A donkey goes past tethered in the back of a pick-up while we are waiting for the bus.We had to stand on the bus as far as Lindos but we get a seat for the rest of the journey. The driver, with a flower tucked behind his ear, drove with a fag in one hand and a two-way radio in the other chatting with other bus drivers I imagined. After we leave Haraki. I see why as we re-join the man road. Two people had boarded at Haraki wanting to go to Archangelos and as we approach the junction, swerving round a dog eating a dead cat in the road we rendezvous with another bus and they change buses. And there's me thinking they are all disorganised here!
Both buses get stuck behind a truck up a very long hill and the 2-way banter continues until we eventually overtake the truck. We carry on through Afandou and Faliraki to Rhodes Town, immediately having to avoid the human spam peddling time shares.
We duck into the old town for a mazey stroll round the medieval streets. three time we arrive at the same spot after being convinced we are going in completely the opposite direction. We are finally helped by a guy touting for trade outside a taverna and we find our way back past the Sulieman Mosque [pictured] again towards the Palace Of The Grand Masters. Flash was out!
We have lunch at Oasis in a concealed square where the husband and wife have a minor row over the English spelling of Gyros on the blackboard outside. Much to our amusement. As they have taken so much trouble spelling it we decide that's what we'll have [not a Greek salad!?!] and they are brilliant.With Mythos, tsatziki, tomato, pitta... and chips [Oh well].
After wandering round the streets some more we have a look at the harbour and decide to get the 2.30 bus, in case we can't get on the later ones. Before that we pop into a shop to get some Mastika. the guy has to clamber over loads of empty boxes for a couple of minutes to get to the back of the shop and the bottles. And then clamber back to the till. the place is an utter shambles.
There are only two or three buses in the next four hours and all likely to be full, late or non-existent. we get on and get a seat. the bus, confusingly, takes a different route back and the journey is about 90 minutes and very hot. As we neared Lindos the smoke over the mountains is worse than ever. We feared that the fire had spread further north or another one had broken out.
When we get off back in Pefkos a huge brown cloud is hanging over the bay, drifting miles out to sea, and it's almost dark. The sun is a pink dot in the cloud and the ash is falling thick and fast. A check on the internet reveals a thousand hectares destroyed and the winds mean they are unable to predict which way it will spread. It's close to a village that I assume is Laerma which was evacuated on day 2. A man has been arrested for negligence. Lardos, Asklipo and Gennadi are lost in the smoke and there are now 16 aircraft fighting the fire, flown in from mainland Greece, Cyprus, France and Italy.
We have more Mythos in the bar at the hotel with beermats on top of the glasses to keep the ash out. There is small army of ants getting into the kitchen via an electrical socket. Must not have mopped up some melon juice properly earlier. The ant invasion is a trifle compared to the sight at dinner as flames start to creep over the mountain across the bay. The wind whips them up and its impossible how close they might be to any village. this a small community and everyone must know people that live across the bay and there is a pervading feeling of helplessness. the dinner at Nikolaus Taverna is wonderful but it is impossible to take our eyes off the flames.
Dolamades
Rusk, tomato and olive oil
Lamb shank
Mousaka
The fire is troubling so we finish our wine and head to the hotel.
Categories: Photography, Food & Drink, Travel
See my flickr set: Rhodes 2008
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