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Digital Abstracts
By Steve Wilde

Wallowing In Mud
September 02, 2009

Today we are up at 7.30 and not feeling too lively. I realise that this is probably because our bodies are interpreting this as 5.30 really and I’d be just as bad if it was 2 hours later at home!

The reason for this is a trip to the mud baths and sulphur thermals. The smell of the sulphur so early in the day is getting me gagging as we get off the boat and I’m not sure if I will be able to keep my breakfast down when we go in but it actually smells less once you are in there. We wade about for 5 or 10 minutes knee deep in muddy water, bending over trying to scoop up enough to cover each other with, before standing in the sun for ten minutes to bake dry.

We don’t do nearly as good a job as some other folk but we are grateful to get it off once it has dried. The showers are bloody cold and getting into the 39 degree thermal baths isn’t so bad after that. It is all supposed to make you look 10 years younger. I’m not sure about that, but after we had showered off the sulphurous water and got dressed again we felt extremely chilled and had amazingly smooth skin. All ready to work on a nice new tan.

The boat pootles us up to Lake Koycegiz. Which looks breathtaking it’s so still. It has to be over 25km long and is below sea level, so the river that flows past our hotel room performs the feat of flowing away from the sea! We hang around for a while until it is time to head back to Dalyan for lunch.

Lunch is at the Starfish Café and consists of meze followed by chicken, meatballs or fish. Of the Meze’s; we have black eyed beans, white beans in tomato sauce, an incredibly hot harissa sauce, tomatoes, cucumber, goats cheese and bread. I am warned that the harissa is really hot about three seconds after ladling a mountain of it onto my plate. I feel duty bound to eat it all after that. Somehow I manage with a couple of cold beers.

Back onboard the boat we head up river to the beach, stopping off in front of the Lycian tombs that face our hotel. They are pretty impressive and don’t look the 2500 years old that they are. Earthquakes have not helped them survive the years but they are still there! We spot 6 Kingfishers on the rest of our journey to the beach and the next two weeks will become a challenge for me to try to get a decent photograph of the speedy little blighters.

Iztuzu beach is 7km long and the end that the water taxis drop you off at is also the one where all the tourists from Marmaris etc arrive on day trips. It’s quite early when we get there and pretty deserted but we are told that the area with sun beds fills up quickly and walking for ten minutes or so to the left will find you a lovely quiet spot.. Indeed it does. We are troubled only by a couple of passers by and crabs on sorties to and from the waters edge.

Back in our room later that evening we hear the first of many calls to prayer from the local mosque and while sitting across the river from it later on, awaiting our meal, we see that the minaret is adorned with many speakers and coloured neon bulbs.

The tandir is tender, falling off the bone, and served up with vegetables, rice and chips. We gather a few cat and dog shaped friends before we are finished. All of the restaurants seem to get adopted by particular cats and dogs. It’s as if the animals meet up and decide who will haunt which restaurant. None of them look too stray, compared to those we saw in St. Lucia for example. One of the cats has an unfortunate patch of fur making him look like a gormless version of Gizmo from Gremlins.

Categories: Food & Drink, Travel

See my flickr set: Turkey 2009

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